Perpetually roaming as we do in search of the perfect wave brought us to Indonesia, home to what many surfers solemnly attest to having “the best waves in the world.” It sounds hyperbolic, until one considers its geography, well suited to receive consistent and powerful Southern Hemisphere swells breaking along the reefs of its 17,000 islands. Flawless, warm water waves, psychedelic sunsets and kind,  friendly people are the reasons so many return here over and over.   

We always turn to our favorite surf tour operator, WaterWays Travel when booking a surf trip. They’re experts in everything for your surf adventure. They will arrange transfers, accommodations at the world’s best surf destinations and guides, working with a trusted and vetted collection of properties and locales. We chose Nemberala Beach Resort on the island of Rote located in the East Nusa Tenggara province, 310 miles from Australia’s northwest coast.

This is home to Nemberala Left, a dreamy, 300-plus-yard-long wave that will stoke any surfer looking for a long, fun left hander. There are multiple other surf breaks in the area, including The Bommie, Boa and more. The resort always has boats at the ready to whisk guests out to these reef breaks in addition to secluded coves and beaches. Their quiver of boards is excellent and for those who are not inclined to surf every day, there is good fishing and fun sightseeing.

Greg Rogers, the affable and kind general manager, is ever present, making sure we had all the gear and is a wealth of knowledge regarding the various surf breaks and conditions, which can change at a moment’s notice. Thoughtful and thorough, Greg knows everyone on the island and if a need arises (one of our group felt a bit under the weather and with one of his calls, a local physician promptly arrived for a house call to save the day). Anita, head chef and assistant manager, makes up the other half of this dynamic and charming husband and wife team. Anita is radiant and elegant, gracefully attending to guests and her smile lights up everywhere she goes. 

We’ll always fondly remember the smiling, kind Rotenese people. 
The staff is a delight, and they truly embody the friendly and gentle spirit of the citizens of Rote. Nothing but smiles and waves and cheerful greetings of “selamat pagi,” meaning “congratulations on the morning” from smartly-uniformed schoolchildren to the elder residents of the island welcomed us as we strolled to the town market where we saw vendors with the days local catch, freshly made tofu, along with dragon fruit, mango, plump avocados, lychee, veggies and nuts. Although we learned as much of the Indonesian language as we could, the staff speaks beautiful English and communication was fun and effortless. 

Guests and staff easily become friends in the common dining area/lounge/bar, a very comfy spot, and our names were quickly remembered and used by the staff. Taco Tuesday was one of the weeknight highlights, as many locals come out to enjoy drinks, delicious fish, chicken and steak tacos and fantastic live music played by local kids. It all made for a joyous evening.

Other dinners were fresh fish (grilled Spanish mackerel was a highlight), steak, calamari, and chicken along with salad and rice and plenty of delicious sambal, an Indonesian chile paste or sauce. They even prepared a masterpiece of beef Wellington one night. Breakfasts were hearty with eggs any style, veggies, cheese, hash browns, toast and fresh fruit. The homemade smoothies were ice cold and refreshing in the tropical heat. 

Daily massages are offered and there is nothing quite like a deep tissue rub by the pool in the center of the main courtyard, surrounded by tall, swaying palm trees, overlooking the sea and shoreline. We loved their fleet of scooters that we used to zip around to more isolated beaches and Rote’s capital, Ba’a.

Nemberala Beach Resort consists of four large air-conditioned duplex bungalows built with locally-quarried stone, exposed regional hardwoods and traditional Rotenese alang roofs. Each feature private and spacious outdoor bathrooms, porches and views of the pool, ocean and surf breaking on the outer reef. The villas are duplex units; meaning each unit houses two rooms (each with private bathroom) that can be joined by interior door to accommodate families or groups of friends traveling together, or kept locked for privacy. Rooms can be set up as king or twin and by specific request children or triple occupancy may be accommodated. Each room is air-conditioned and has two large ceiling fans as well as natural land or sea breezes flowing through the louvered windows. Each unit is furnished with bedside tables, lamps, large free-standing closet, seating and luggage stand.

For more information on Nemberala or the best in international surfing adventures, contact WaterWays Surf Adventures, https://www.waterwaystravel.com,  the finest boutique surf travel agency we know with decades of experience and know-how. Their unique approach provides surfers and their families highly personalized travel advice and execution you can trust.