A major new hotel opening in Las Vegas is just the kind of thing to get our poor old heart pumping with excitement and expectations, so off across the desert we fled to see Fontainebleau Las Vegas. We were not disappointed in the least. 

An architectural paean to Morris Lapidus, whose Neo-baroque, “Miami Modern,” hotels constructed in the 1950s and 60s, have come to define that era’s glamorous resort-hotel style, neonate Fontainebleau Las Vegas is not only a thrill to the eye, but a first-rate hotel that rivals, even eclipses, the Wynn, Venetian and Bellagio.

Situated on the Las Vegas Strip, across the street from the Las Vegas Convention Center West Hall expansion, this sister property to Fontainebleau Miami Beach sits on the 24.5-acre site previously occupied by the El Rancho Hotel and Casino and the Algiers Hotel. It is the tallest hotel in Las Vegas at 729 feet, 67 floors (and 3644 bright and contemporary rooms), and symbolizes the grand indulgence of the “new” Las Vegas, a paragon of excellence.

Every grand Daedalian detail here will bowl you over: a massive porte cochere with plenty of well-dressed, polite valets bustling about, a sweeping, soaring-to-the-sky ceiling lobby, sexy, wavy Deco curves, large-scale quality artwork, well-polished brass, a red rose centerpiece of hundreds of live single stem beauties, jumbo chandeliers that would shame Versailles, and even mobile optional check in kiosks to expedite check in. Every edge here has been masterfully carved, corniced, gilded, garlanded or bedizened with glossy marble mosaics, painted murals, and rich detailing. Mercifully, unlike other Vegas behemoths, the elevators are just steps from check in, so you don’t have to be in marathon shape to ascend to your room.  

Despite its scale, Fontainebleau Las Vegas operates on a very personal, intimate level; there is staff everywhere (it seems like five of them to every guest) and they all seem more than willing to do whatever it takes to make your stay heavenly. We credit this obvious dedication to service to the Soffer family who own the hotel (and also the historic Fontainebleau Miami Beach.)

Our rooms were very luxuriously large and filled with natural light and views of The Sphere, which has to be seen to be believed. An enormous globe, it serves as an entertainment venue inside and outside, a beacon of constantly morphing colorful and dramatic graphics. Beds, linens, art, housekeeping and amenities at the Fontainebleau are innovative and tasteful. Italian shampoos and conditioners by Bottega in sapphire, jewel-like blue bottles look like faceted precious sapphires crowned by gold–incised caps. Bathrooms are huge. And we appreciated the fact that Fontainebleau’s cutting-edge technology did not make things difficult—light fixtures, thermostat, electronic drapes—all were easy to understand.

The hotel has four crystal-clear pools and a spa that would make the most sybaritic Roman envious. A wellness philosophy underpins the Lapis Spa and Wellness which playfully transcends time and place. Lapis Spa at Fontainebleau Las Vegas invites guests to indulge in a meticulously curated blend of ancient, global traditions and cutting-edge technology. Immerse in an otherworldly sanctuary, where the healing power of water, communal connections, and knowledgeable hands guide you to a state of blissful renewal.

Lunch at La Fontaine was an Old World sort of joy, a warm and genuine welcome by April, a majestic, light-splashed room, refined Bernardaud china and so much marble it might well have exhausted Carrera’s total supply. Palm trees filled the room and so did a happy cadre of busy staff, dressed in handsome pink shirts and purple bow ties. The eggs benedict with lemon hollandaise, smoked salmon on brioche, Maine lobster roll with herbed mayo, and tartine of seared avocado were of top quality as was the service. This is a seriously refined restaurant with seriously competent chefs, no doubt about it. We wish we’d had time for additional delights like diver scallops in caviar beurre blanc, the Wagyu cheeseburger, or the oyster mushroom ravioli in this stunning, crystal-chandeliered, pastel room with such dazzling service.

Thirsty as Lawrence of Arabia crawling into Damascus, we headed for our first night to Collins and there is no better place to kick off an evening of revelry: live piano music, a handsome bar, plump, comforting couches and handcrafted cocktails served by movie-star-looking team.  It is a reassuringly comfortable and sophisticated spot.  

There are seven bars at Fontainebleau, and each has its own personality.  Our livers only allowed a visit to a second, Nowhere bar where live music pulsates and habitues play billiards and backgammon, cigar smoking allowed. A good place for a clandestine cocktail, for sure.

Dinner was much-anticipated at Don’s Prime where we had heard indulgence is the order of the night.  And it was perfection. This is old school dining where exceptional kitchen craftsmanship meets the highest caliber of service. We were seated in the back, highly-desirable Red Room where red roses bloomed and Gueridon trolley carts rolled about. A robust menu of steakhouse classics and a wine list to bowl over even the most demanding oenophile were presented. We sat in awe of the red velvet walls and well-dressed crowd and proceeded to dig into expertly-prepared steaks and fine wines. We eschewed the flambéed desserts but the electricity in the room provided enough fire to lighten our hearts.

Dining at Don’s Prime is glamorous theatre as well as an adventure to carnivore heaven. Choose from the best Hudson Valley foie gras, Wagyu beef, prime custom strip steaks, dry-aged rib eyes, porterhouse, filet mignon tomahawk—it’s all on offer…as are their special sauces.  So is roasted chicken, sole meuniere, langoustines, salmon, branzino, lobster, crab, and an array of sides like wild mushrooms, asparagus gratin, creamed spinach that are irresistible. Plus oysters, shrimp, and many inviting salads.

This is a restaurant that attracts the discriminating gourmets—young and old—of Las Vegas and visitors in search of a night to remember, with consistently great cooking, top-tier wines to impress the cleverest cognoscenti, lush surroundings, a haven of civility and attentive charm. Take your best client here…or your loved one. Or David Copperfield, if you know him. We tottered out wishing we had saved room for the desserts, especially the chocolate surprise.

Lest these two restaurants not be enough, Fontainebleau has 19 others and you can savor Asian and Italian plus a Promenade of eight casual destinations. They’ve thought of everything and every palate.

All in all, the Fontainebleau has ushered in a new era and higher level of luxe in Las Vegas, meticulously-managed, impressive and uncompromising, full of energy with the widest range of amenities on The Strip, fabulous dining, a nightclub, beautiful casino and a full spectrum of entertainment, all under one illustrious roof.  Located at Fontainebleau Las Vegas, 2777 S Las Vegas Blvd, Las Vegas; (702) 678-9000; fontainebleaulasvegas.com.