Our hearts lifted when we entered Bibi Ji and were greeted by the endearing smile of owner Alejandro Medina whose genuine greeting signaled this might be a dinner to remember. And it was, assuredly.
Medina and his wife, Charlotte, have judged the interior perfectly eschewing Edwardian Indian of the Raj in favor of a sunny, shiny, pink, sleek jewel box of a room where one can peek into the kitchen while sitting at the bar or take a table under the amusing Curry up and Drink neon sign on the wall. At once your olfactory senses will be seduced by the perfumed hints of cumin and cardamom.
Of course, we are familiar with Anglo-Indian food but we didn’t expect was interesting, superbly cooked tandoor, breads and curries that were at once intriguing and familiar. Alejandro sat us at the chef’s counter, four seats reserved only for those opting to indulge in the tasting menu offered each weekend. And he poured us each a glass of cool Perce Neige from La Vinoterie to get the party started. Wines are a carefully considered feature here with an emphasis on low-intervention wines including Bolivian bottlings made by Medina and many from founding partner Rajat Parr’s portfolio.
Chef Israel Romero then magically appeared to walk us through the amazing five courses that were to follow, starting with a refreshing market tomato salad made with chilled and salted Givens tomatoes and nigella seed over which tiny sprinkles of marigolds danced.
Small plates of Mysore Bonda followed, a warm potato-pea fritter with spicy okra raita. This called for more wine and Alejandro complied with a delicious Whitcraft Chardonnay.
The hits kept coming: uni biryani, yellow dal saag Panir, butter chicken and a local catch “Moilee”–vermillion in coconut curry with parsnip pooriyal that took us back to Kerala.
Then, from the tandoor, Barra Kebab, perfectly grilled lamb chops redolent of turmeric, cumin, and nutmeg. As we always judge an Indian restaurant by its breads, we asked for naan and got celestial garlic tandoor naan of superior quality.
We ended this feast with a cup of tasty ice cream, delightfully called Gulabi Dream.
To say we felt dreamy would be an understatement: this is one of three or four Santa Barbara restaurants that rises above pedestrian tourist tastes to deliver sensational dining that can compete nationally. One does not come to Bibi Ji to be thrifty if you want to eat like maharajahs. Our tasting menu with wines was $125 each but the value was there—in spades. But one need not break the bank to enjoy their unimpeachable cuisine, however—there is corn salad at $16, tandoor panir tikka at $22, creamy black lentils with house toasted spices ($21) and basmati rice ($6). A cucumber salad with lemon and chaat malasa is just $9. We saw many young attractive couples and families eating simply and affordably here.
To finish, the servers are angels with a charming, calming manner and super duper knowledge. We love Bibi Ji and we’re grateful that the Medinas and chef Israel care enough to gift our town with a culture and cuisine of excellence. Bibi Ji, 1213 State Street, www.bibiji.com.
Travel by ENTREE 
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