We’ve never been at a loss for a decent French meal in New York be it Le Bernadin on the high end and Cafe des Artistes on the West Side where we first went in a blazer and school tie in the 60s to eat quail eggs at the bar. But we keep gravitating back to La Goulue, as comfortable as an old beret with classic dishes, a zippy vibe and non pareil Upper East Side location.

Ever since the dashing Jean Denoyer arrived on Manhattan soil from France in the late 50s, we have admired his style and dedication to excellence. Before Balthazar, before Les Halles, in 1972 Jean brought authentic Gallic cookery in a lively setting to New York. He set the trend in motion. How about a starter of
ahi tuna, wasabi miso seasoning, fresh coriander. Or salmon gravlax with caviar-lemon crème fraiche on brioche toast? Fresh oysters, La Goulue has them. And caviar with all the trimmings. Entrees? We have a special affection for tuna confit, chopped chicken salad, entrecote, and steak tartare. Their truffle fries are excellent as is the spinach and oyster mushrooms. Save room for a cheese plate, mousse au chocolate, or tarte tatin: paradis sur terre. 

Who in the world does quenelles today? La Goulue does, and it reminds us of La Caravelle or La Grenouille (but without the fanfare and fuss)—a tasty pike dumpling, with brandy-lobster sauce gratinee.  There’s also onion soup, terrine de foie gras and escargot in garlic butter. You get the idea: it’s not a menu that will challenge you with anxiety, all bolloxed up with ingredients you never heard of. This is solid, carefully prepared traditional French food, a la our favorite Paris joint, Chez Andre off the avenue Montaigne. And the service is efficient and friendly by a well-trained staff with eagle eyes.

We go whenever we can for sole simply done with wine lemon and butter and speaking of wines, their list is fairly-priced, a rare phenomenon in New York City. There’s lots of air kissing and the memories of seeing Swifty, Andy, Mica, Babe and all those very special people having a ball hang in the air.