Restaurants come and go in this little gilded town and no one knows this better than us–we’ve lived here for 50 years. Bottom line, only the best survive and that means excellent food, top management and exemplary service. If restaurateurs don’t truly care about their customers, they are certain to fail here.

We are happy to report that a new restaurant, Ancora Osteria, has just opened here and it ticks all the boxes. It’s warm and inspired by Italian traditions with homemade pastas, Roman-style pinsas and simply prepared meats and seafood. It’s truly a neighborhood restaurant, an Italian pantry with the freshest California produce.

Ancora occupies the space that once held Via Vai, a beloved popular Italian trattoria. To say that Ancora has risen from its ashes is an understatement: the chef is dynamic, the owners are motivated and the staff honestly cares about the happiness of their guests. Manager Silvio, who glides constantly about surveying the scene, especially is dedicated to seeing that all is perfection. He’s a charming guy with true talent.

The al fresco terrace courtyard remains a delightful feature, but it has been freshened up and thoughtfully redecorated, now embodying the perfect ambiance for a superb outdoor dining experience that is second to none. With its inviting atmosphere enhanced by cozy seating arrangements and twinkling string lights, guests can savor their meals under the stars. The more intimate interior has been completely redone, lightened and brightened with natural wood beams that add warmth, complemented by carefully curated artwork that contributes to the overall aesthetic.

A handsome marble bar serves as a stunning focal point, inviting patrons to pull up a stool and relax. Flowers adorn every corner, including charming posies on each table and delicately lit candles that create a romantic setting, ensuring that every dining experience here feels special and memorable.

Obviously the kitchen has been totally redone to the highest standards and behind it all is Luca and Francesco Crestanelli, the very creative chefs from the highly touted S.Y. Kitchen in Santa Ynez.

The fratelli Crestanelli create dishes that would please a Medici prince: we dined on a lovely yellow beet salad with goat cheese, pickled plums and toasted hazelnuts, then dug into perfectly grilled branzino with cherry tomatoes dancing about and a lusty mezzi paccheri pasta with Maine lobster.

Next time we’ll start with focaccia and try the dry-aged porcini-rubbed steak and the roasted chicken with chimichurri. Or maybe the grilled pork chop with braised fennel and a margherita pinsa, redolent with basil and San Marzano tomatoes and extra virgin olive oil.

We had no room for dessert, purtroppo, and we lost out on their classic tiramisu, torta caprese, gelato and pavolva which friends tell us are all scrumptious.

Ancora is a casual place, with a wine list loaded with international and local wines that does not intimidate and a team serving you like you were family. You’ll see young and old here, prominent blue bloods and regular tourists all having a ball and eating very very well.

Dress up or down, all will be welcome at Ancora although we did see two Maseratis and a Ferrari in the parking lot. Ancora loves children as all Italians do and their bambini menu will keep the little ones happy. At present dinner only is served Thursday through Monday but lunch will soon be served. Visit http://www.ancoraosteria.com, (805) 869-2338, and we strongly urge you book a reservation as the place is busy. https://ancoraosteria.com/